The Amalfi Coast is one of those dreamy destinations that almost looks too good to be true, with picture-perfect Positano and sheer cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean sea. But I can assure you it’s just as perfect in reality. If not more perfect, adding in the charm of Italian accents and heart-shaped pizzas (true love). In just one week I’ve seen the sought-after sights and discovered a few hidden gems along the way too. I hope this guide can help you plan your own trip to the coast and capture its undeniable beauty.
Positano
The pastel-colored houses on top of Positano’s corner cliff are probably what drew you to the Amalfi Coast in the first place, and it will make you take a million of pictures from every angle. While there might be a hundred steps from the beach to the top, the town is super small with nothing but boutiques and a handful of restaurants to explore.
Spiaggia Grande di Positano
This is Positano’s main beach, easy to recognize thanks to its orange umbrellas and iconic view of the pastel-colored houses to your right. If you come in the morning (around 9:30am is fine during off peak season), you get to enjoy the whole beach to yourself, and the sun is set just right for some photos. The whole experience is going to cost you though (€50 for two sunbeds), but this is the part where you pretend you’re rich like the rest of ’em and enjoy the luxury.
Chez Black
Located on the beach, Chez Black has become an Instagram institution. Maybe it’s the celebrities that have dined here before, the baby blue chairs or – when you ask them kindly – pizzas made with extra love (read: heart-shaped pies). I’ve heard they sometimes pretend to be fully booked, but two can play that game: look around for other options and they’ll magically manage to squeeze you in.
Casa E Bottega
A few hundred steps takes you to Casa E Bottega, an all-white oasis with organic juices and healthy fare. Instead of carbs and cheese-heavy dishes, the menu is packed with refreshing bites like zucchini rolls stuffed with lemony guacamole, granola bowls and banana pancakes. Casa e bottega feels like a Californian café, but it still operates under Italian tradition: breakfast is only served until 11:30; lunch until 4pm.
Amalfi
Duomo di Amalfi
This century-old catholic cathedral takes center stage on Amalfi’s main (and only) square, perched atop 62 steps (I hope you’re noticing a pattern here… this isn’t exactly a lazy holiday destination). With lots of tourists, cars and scooters trying to make their way through the center, Amalfi can be quite overwhelming. The secret to any tourist hotspot, is to come in the morning before the crowd takes over.
Silvermoon
My favorite beach on the Amalfi Coast, Silvermoon comes with striking red and white parasols. I mean, just look how fun and Instagrammable they are?! But Silvermoon is more than just good looks: a laid-back ambiance, yummy pizzas and no Positano pricetags (22-€25 for two sunbeds).
Atrani
Just a short walk from bustling Amalfi, you’ll find Atrani: a much quieter town with a spacious beach inbetween two steep cliffs. Biased as a city girl, I’m more interested in that pretty pastel-pink building…
Fuordi di Furore
Between Positano and Amalfi lies Fuordi di Furore, a magical-looking beach with a bridge spanning over the sea. There’s no car parking places nearby nor is it accessible by boat, but you can plop your scooter by the road or ask your bus driver to stop on Furore Bridge.
Lido Capo di Conca dei Marini
A favorite amongst Italians, Lido Capo is a terrace by the sea complete with sunbeds and a diving board (the fun you’ll have). Reaching your secluded spot is a bit of an adventure too; several steps precede a bumpy car ride with your own personal driver. There’s comfort in knowing they do it all the time…
Duoglio Beach
If you think Positano is hard work, wait until you meet Duoglio Beach. Getting down the never-ending steps might be tiring, but the views along the way are breathtaking (not just literally!).
Sorrento
A much bigger town than its neighbours on the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento offers plenty of things to do. Start your day people watching at Piazza Tasso, a bustling square with cafés and restaurants, before taking in Sorrento’s stunning view at Villa Comunale Park. But the old centre is just as picturesque, filled with charming cobblestoned streets, lovely little alleyways and lemon stalls. Don’t leave without trying limoncello, Sorrento’s signature (and strong!) drink.
A few more tips…
Transportation: boat and scooter.
Neither of these are superior; they just offer you different perspectives of the Amalfi Coast. If you’re here long enough, I would definitely recommend doing both at least once! While the boat gives you a more panoramic view of every town, the scooter allows you to experience the pastel-colored paradises from different edges on the cliff and you’ve got all the freedom in the world to stop where ever you want. Of course, you need to pay attention on the road, but it’s definitely doable if you drive at a normal speed. A car is a totally different matter as the roads are narrow and you’ll struggle through the bends with other busses driving past. The bus is an option too, but it’s by far the most time consuming way to travel.
Where to stay
Positano might be the prettiest town on the Amalfi Coast, but it’s also very busy and expensive. If cost isn’t an issue for you, then yes, stay in Positano and wake up to stunning views every day. If you’re looking for something more affordable, I would highly recommend Amalfi: it’s centrally located with busses and boats available to everywhere on the coast. Sorrento is an ideal base if you want to take day trips to Capri, Pompeii and Napoli, but it’s quite far from Amalfi’s beautiful beaches.
